Floralis Genérica - Recoleta
HOLA! Although it has been only 48 hours since my arrival in Buenos Aires, it feels like much longer. I am staying in San Telmo – one of my favorite barrios en el mundo! I was here several years ago, with Nadine and Heather. The neighborhood is known for its arts, Sunday antique market and most definitely the TANGO. It is a great place to see the traditional side of Buenos Aires, such as... lots of little fruit or pastry or hardware shops with old people behind the counter saying “Hola! Como esta?” as you pass by, bars dating back to the 1800's with old placards and wine bottles lining the walls and “chopp”/tap beer flowing freely, and tango singers striking up a song or a conversation as you sit at an outdoor cafe. These traditional elements are all mixed up with a modern streak of young artists, funky boutiques and an active nightlife. Una mezcla muy saborosa.
So, the day I arrived (Wednesday) I walked around San Telmo, enjoyed lunch at one of those traditional corner bars and ate a very late dinner at a local “parilla” (they are known for grilling the famous Argentinian meat, but I ordered fish & veggies). My waiter was a blast, he and I talked music and exchanged recommendations until he got reprimanded for not getting his other work done. I returned to the hotel around 1:30am and was invited to share wine with two of the staff out in the courtyard. What followed was two+ hours of random conversation with us and a girl from Israel – who met up with me the next day to share music by an Israeli band she loves. A great first night!
Yesterday I eased into my day, taking the “collectivo” (bus) to Recoleta to visit the famous cemetery where only Buenos Aires' finest take rest. That controversially includes Evita Peron. No tomb will ever compare to the obnoxious size and maniacal detail of the Terracotta Warriors in Xi'an, China, but some of Recoleta's massive tombs and sculptures feel excessive, especially those displaying plaques from “disciples” extolling the god-like virtues of the deceased. The things people do to protect themselves in the afterlife... Despite this, I found the cemetery interesting and quite peaceful. Afterwards, I watched Serena Williams win her semi-final match in the Australian Open over a lunch of pumpkin+gruyere crepes with the owner of one of those corner bars. I glanced at the “diario” (daily newspaper) and saw that “Babel Orquestra” was playing a concert at a cultural center early that evening... I fell in love with Orquestra Imperial Tipica my last trip to BA, so I figured it was worth trying again.
The cultural center KONEX is in Abasto (southwest of San Telmo), which I now know is another barrio filled with a unique and impressive mixture of restaurants, bars, clubs and cultural places. KONEX itself has a big courtyard with a HUGE orange staircase that doubles as a stage. There are hanging baskets underneath where people swing and chat, and the bar is complete with swings (I'm a big fan!) and cushiony chairs and couches. Babel Orquestra put on a fun, family-friendly interactive performance, with good musicians and three actors who demanded audience participation. They did not move me like Orquestra Imperial Tipica... but I enjoyed it.
After the show, by chance, I struck up conversation with a big group of locals. Most of them work together in local television, on a series of programs that are broadcast throughout South America. We ended up leaving together, six of us squeezing in a car that required a wrench to start, and heading to the apartment of one of them. Time just disappeared as we sat there listening to music, drinking cervezas, talking... Two of them left for work at 1am, and an hour later we turned on the TV to see Rosario, who was just sitting next to me chilling out with us, all dressed-up, acting like a Game Show host, encouraging the audience to call in with the answer to the question (“Animal name with no A or O” what could it be???) to win MUCHO DINERO! It's pretty much the epitome of bad late-night TV, and they know it, but somehow it's real entertainment for the thousands who pay call in each program. It was funny to watch... ESPECIALLY when Rosario suddenly looked in the camera and said (in Spanish) “Hey! I just found out Stephanie is watching! Hi Stephanie! How are you doing? etc etc.¨" Yep – I GOT A SHOUT OUT ON NATIONAL ARGENTINIAN TV! Who woulda thunk it.
Somehow we managed to keep the party going until almost 6am... I slunk into the hotel room I am sharing with three Brazillian girls and slept until 12noon. Good times!