I had an absolutely amazing time trekking in Torres Del Paine.  I hiked over 80 kilometers in 4 days, and somehow managed to walk out feeling GOOD!  Even STRONGER!  The trek I did is a well-marked path, called the "W" because of its rough shape: picture it, you go up and down 3 different valleys as you travel from west to east (or vice versa).  It was physically demanding going up each valley, often enduring a continuous hour of steep uphill hiking with a heavy pack on your back... plus 70-90 km/hr wind and sometimes rain.  Every day I enjoyed sun and blue skies... as well as wind stronger than anything I have previously experienced and rain.  This was exactly what I expected so I was fully prepared.  I am happy decided not to camp, but instead stayed indoors at Refugios (shelters) with hot showers and cool people, fun/funny staff.  I prepared my own (instant) soup and sandwiches (my specialty: cheese, apple, onion & szechwan pepper) and drank lots of tea.  I will give you a day-by-day account at a later date, including some photos. 

Before and after my trek I stayed at Erratic Rock hostel in Puerto Natales.  The co-owner, Bill, from Oregon, is THE most helpful person ever.  His partner, Rustyn, hosts a 'trekking talk' at 3pm every day... I missed that but Bill and I discussed everything I was bringing, the food I would buy, the route I had chosen, he even lent me an indispensible 1/2 liter cooking cup.  Their staff is cool, and there would always be groups of travellers with them watching movies in the family room at night... and I liked their taste, as I caught bits of "Princess Bride" and "American History X".

I spent two days/one night in Punta Arenas before flying to Puerto Montt...  I stayed at Erratic Rock again, although this location is more like a homestay... Patricio and his wife and 1 1/2 year old daughter host about 8 travellers.  They have a full kitchen and tv room with free internet.  Unfortunately, Patricio's reggae band did not play while I was there (I saw their drums, sax and guitar resting in the dining room), but I hear Bill is throwing a party in Puerto Natales this weekend, and they will be providing the entertainment.  Just missed it.  I enjoyed talking to Patricio about music, and am now on the hunt for reggae music mixed with the indigenous music of Chile.  I think the instrumentation as well as the lyrics about colonization and suppression add a very interesting twist to the reggae we know.

I landed in Puerto Montt, and took a transfer to the bus station, which is nuts - an overwhelming cacophony of people and offices touting bus rides and tours.  Randomly, Eduardo - a tour guide who had just got off work - offered me assistance,  and ended up being my savior!  With him I planned my next week in Chile, bought a bus ticket to Argentina, shared a taxi to my hotel, and later went out for bite to eat.  Not only did I learn a lot about Chilean politics (which sounds a lot like Argentinian politics, which sounds a lot like American politics!) and future trekking that I want to do.... but he offered me a free ride the following day, coming along on his tour to Chiloe.  In the process, I learned more about the culture of this group of islands, got to know his nice driver, Sergio Perez, and ate a great, free lunch. 

Now I am in Chiloe, an archipelago off the coast of Chile.  There are many quaint towns here, each one has a "Plaza de Armas", where you will find some of Chile's oldest churches.  They are known for their architectural style, and WOOD... simple and unadorned.  They have an old, rural feeling, as do the towns - with fishermen everywhere, and artesians selling their popular woolen goods.

I will make my way back to Puerto Montt tonight, and in the next 2 days boat and bus my way to Argentina... via Bariloche... heading to El Bolson.  Talk soon!