I CAN ALREADY TELL THIS MESSAGE IS GOING TO BE LONG... PROCEED WITH CAUTION : )
Sorry I haven't updated in a while... The internet connection here in Dar es Salaam leaves MUCH to be desired. Although I have work to do here that really requires internet use, in a way it is nice to NOT sit in front of a computer for hours a day like I did at home. It forces you to go out and do/see things - which is the point of travelling anyway. I shopped at the Wood Market near Mwenge yesterday when we were without power. Bought just a bit of jewelry - heavy negotiation required. It's true you are haggling over approx. one or two dollars (1-2,000 Tsh/Tanzanian Shilling), but it's the principal. AND, when you're living here, you're living in this economy, so you're not really thinking about things in terms of $$$.
TOTAL PARADOX, or juxtaposition, or both: Less than 1 km away from the market there is a mall that is so Western you could forget where you were. The grocery-store (SHOP RITE) prices are decent, but the clothing stores and pharmacy and electronics store (GAME) are definitely as high as in the U.S. Anyway, I went there to buy a radio for the house, and so I could listen to the local stations. They have tons of stations, with conglomerates just like at home (for example: IPP, CLOUDS-FM).
As I am about to tell you about some live music, it just dawned on me that I was in Tanzania less than 24 hours before I headed out to a concert! Fitting for me, I guess. Music (and photography) are my focus while in Tanzania, which isn't any different from my interests at home, really. So... it's actually quite nice to focus on what I love!
Last Saturday I saw K-Ci & JoJo (from the US, I think they were/are played on WGCI) and two female artists... one of them sang her big single, "Mr. Politician", which really hits home on a problem that seems unfortunately consistent throughout Africa - CORRUPTION. The next day - less than 24 hours after meeting my new friends Benja, Henry and Upenda - I went with them to Morogoro (a city about 4 hours away by bus) to see a big concert. We visited with some family of theirs that live there, rented hotel rooms for the night (my single room with a great ceiling fan & king size bed & tv cost 11,500 Tsh/about $10), and got into the show as V.I.P.'s because Henry is an Editor for a big paper in town (he covers music and more). After seeing about 8 different acts I knew nothing about, I have recognized multiple songs by them on the radio. Big names in East African music - the more impressive ones did NOT sing over their own voicetrack, a la Ashlee Simpson (or if you prefer, Milli Vanilli). I think "Juacali" is the name of the Kenyan artist who sings "Kwa Heri" (which means Goodbye in Swahili) - he was at the show. I will try to post a link to that song somehow, because I can't get it out of my head, even as I'm typing this message! The concert itself: the performances, the set-up and the raucous audience (inexpensive ticket price draws a wide range of people), was quite an experience.
I attended my third concert in Tanzania last night. 3 shows in 10 days, -- pretty close to my Chicago average, I reckon! This live performance was actually in the garden of the house where I live. The group is called ZEMKALA, which means Xylophone in Swahili. In addition to a xylophone their band features a percussionist, kit drummer & bassist - and they dance and sing as well. These, more traditional African players, were joined - in the first set - by three Finnish guys playing guitar, violin and what looked like a big metal cigar box/a homemade stringed instrument.
Their unique sound is hard to describe, blending African beats with other world rhythms. One song sounded like a tango, reminding me of this band "Orquestra Imperial" that I encountered on the streets of Buenos Aires. Another song, I swore they were singing in Spanish, but it might've just been the feel of the song (or the wine I was drinking...) Two female African dancers took the "stage" during the band's second set. So impassioned and lively; one of them, Yuster, owns this house with her husband, who is the Director of Art In Tanzania.
How lucky I feel to be surrounded by such talented artists - musicians, dancers, teachers, a producer, a chef, a writer, a tailor... I could go on. I hope that I am able to share with all of you the sounds, the songs, the styles, the artists that I am finding here. There's some world-class stuff going on - it is truly amazing to think that it might possibly never be heard or seen in Europe and America.
Besides the slow internet, if I could change anything about this place, it would have to be the mosquitos. I have always been bothered by them, at home or wherever. I am on anti-malarial pills so it's not that as much as the ITCHING! I was doing really well until last night. I kinda fell asleep unintentionally (you could say "passed out") without putting my mosquito net around my bed. When I realized it I covered myself, but trapped 2 mosquitos inside, who enjoyed a hearty feast at my expense... all night long. In my own defense, there was a big Farwell party here last night for 30 or 40 volunteers who are leaving today/tomorrow, so there was much celebration. A simple mistake that I hope to remedy with some sun bathing tomorrow. Does sun really dry up the bites? Not sure, but it seems like reason enough to enjoy the white sand beaches and scope out my next SCUBA dive.
Have a great week! ~steph