So, we are now in Kyoto, settled into a centrally located hotel on Kawaramachi-dori street. After 4 nights in Tokyo, 3 nights at Fuji Rock and going on 3 nights in Kyoto, I'm starting to get a feel for how things are done in Japan. That's not to say that I'm free from a cultural faux pas every now and then! But that's the fun of travelling, I guess... LEARNING AS YOU GO.
Backing up to Tokyo... I loved the diversity of the different neighborhoods, and the great style of the people. Highlights included:
- Sunjuku National Garden - Its Japanese garden puts you in peaceful mood upon entry - it's almost inexplicable. The ponds were filled with big fish, turtles, cranes and more. And their expansive English lawns are one of the few places in Tokyo I found you could throw down a blanket and lay on the grass! The kinda place to spend some quality time.....
- Kinack is the bar located in Ueno, right near our hotel, recommended by a Chicago friend who visited recently. The owner, Mato, was a fast friend... sitting with us and talking about music immediately upon our arrival. He was so impressed that Matt's first Phish show was in 1993 (mine was '94) - he saw them perform at Fuji Rock Festival in 1999 and they rocked his world. Mato showed us a photo album filled with musicians performing, posing with him, or holding up his bar t-shirts... Trey, Paige, Derek Trucks and more... and his bar walls were decorated with concert posters of obscure American bands such as The Big Wu, Railroad Earth and The Slip. I just LOVE finds like this one - they strengthen my belief that good people seek out good stuff... and that there is an international audience, and need, for access to quality, underground "stuff" from around the world... more on that later.
- Meiji Shrine, located in a forest of 100,000 trees donated by the followers of the Emperor (Meiji) and Empress who ruled and lived in an admirable, peaceful, enlightened way. The Shinto religion - which is the official religion of Japan, I believe - has a simple spirituality that really fits the natural setting of this shrine. It was my favorite of all in Tokyo.
- Shibuya/Harajuku is the COOLEST! So fun... as we walked out of the park that houses Meiji Temple and turned left past the subway stop, the people got punkier and the shops got funkier. It has a Soho-NYC/Taksim-Istanbul feel... ecclectic, stylish, pheonomenal people-watching and shopping. Two special restaurants: MOMIKO HOUSE (Stevie Wonder's favorite) and CAFE COCORO.
- Senso-ji Temple - Specifically, the monks' 10am chant was mesmerizing, punctuated by a drummer's solemn beats and the sound of coins (offerings) clanging through the metal grates that seemed to lead many meters below.
- "PISS ALLEY" - what a lovely name... this area of Shinjuku is known for its atmospheric, tiny food stalls and bars. We visited ALBATROSS, a bar about 7 feet wide by 10 feet deep (at most). They serve food and drinks on the second floor roof-deck... drinks are passed up there through a square hole in the ceiling. HILARIOUS. Did I mention they were playing '70s disco the whole time we were there?? Oh, and across the alley, I watched an old man walk into another food stall with a guitar strapped on his back... within minutes he and the other two men in the restaurant (one of whom never stopped reading the newspaper) were singing spirited songs together... he quit JUST BEFORE I went over to film it. I hate when that happens... but it's OK, the heart-warming image is burned in my brain.
I've got many more pictures to upload.. and stories from Fuji Rock and Kyoto to tell... but alas, they will have to wait until next time.
From Kyoto with love ~steph